The realm of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is preferable to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one up to see what each of the hoopla was using this drifter.
WHO Will Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning before the motor or on the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing
This drifter has a lot going for it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very inexpensive price. Handling is great at the same time when you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts an incredibly wide range of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for those that want to tinker, so this car should grow together with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts at the base for the front and back diffs to peek through in addition to a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these are used for mounting things like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually quite a few left empty. They could be employed to control chassis flex, but not with all the stock top deck; an optional you need to be bought. The design is a lot like an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are all easily accessible and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.
? Other than a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll whilst the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.
? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious amount of steering throw they have. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when close to the edges in the chassis as you can. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to manage the D4 in the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to take care of the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys maintain the front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included allowing utilizing a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick set of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, nevertheless i do remember an approach I used some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a go of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the final result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
About The TRACK
With this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to complete an image shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering in the D4 is fairly amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. The CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Though it does look a little bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the correct direction. This really is, partly, due to the awesome handling of the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I know that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform just that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to change the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Increase the throttle to get the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit and the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, and the Novak system is made for just that. I did so must be just a little creative with all the install of the system as a result of limited space in the chassis, but overall it resolved great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for a while, it will go on a little getting used to with the knowledge that an auto losing grip and sliding is the right way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you buy it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at lower than a couple of inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled unmanageable thing, and also the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you believe such as you require more of something anything there’s plenty of points to adjust. I just enjoyed the automobile together with the kit setup plus it was only a matter of battery power pack or two before I used to be swinging the back throughout the hairpins, across the carousel and to and fro through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s not a whole lot you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything that fast. I did, however, have an issue with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept with it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it into actually take a look. During the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is backed by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted stuff like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, once the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.